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Nestled in the wilds of Alaska rests an area accessible
only by airplane or boat, having no roads or encroachment
by modern civilization. It was there, at the foothills of
the St. Elias Mountains, that I spent the first week of
September in search of kamikaze silvers in a hidden place
commonly referred to as the Lost Coast.
I’d been
told by outfitter George Davis that the Alaska Coast was
probably the only place on earth you could cast to
hundreds of bright Cohoes and watch them eat dry flies. He
had told me that it was not uncommon for anglers to hook
and land in excess of twenty fish on a dry fly a day.
Having heard that, I was pretty much set on spending some
time with George.
I was
scheduled to arrive the first week of September for some
of the world’s best Coho fishing, and my close friend Jake
Jordan was going to join me. Jake had spent every summer
for the last five years with guide George Davis. Jake told
me each of those years that Davis insisted that I visit.
Schedules and commitments had made it nearly impossible
for me, but this year was going to be different.
The
plane flight from Cordova to the Tsiu River is nothing
less than spectacular, with scenery of the St. Elias and
Bering Glaciers offering numerous photo opportunities. The
short flight from Cordova takes you approximately forty
minutes.
First Night
After arriving in at the river and getting our housing
arrangements in order, George asked us if we would be
interested in a short evening of fishing. He had said
there would be a high tide at six p.m., and lots of fresh
fish should be in the river. My answer was a resounding,
“show me the way!”
After a
short hop over to the river, it wasn’t long before we were
casting to laid up fish. I watched my partner laying
perfect eighty-foot casts to fish fining on the opposite
bank. I was amazed at how these silvers lay up near the
surface, not unlike sailfish when they lay up near the
surface fining in the sun. These fish were easy casting
targets but not eager biters. My theory is that they go
through some kind of de-salinization process, and when
they are in that mode are not really moving for the fly.
I
spotted some fish near my feet, gray shadows moving in
stealth, no further than 20 feet out. I cast a “Spanker,”
one of George Davis’ creations. This fly has to be the
closest thing to a Christmas ornament that I could
imagine.
The
first cast laid approximately three feet from the fish’s
nose, and he moved aggressively and inhaled the fly. Piece
of cake, I thought as I came tight to my first chromer.
What a rush! Eighteen pounds of chrome fury, and I was
into my backing in less than 10 seconds. After a few long
runs my fish was ready for the taking. I couldn’t believe
this fish, a solid 18 lbs. with not a mark on it! Truly
the ocean’s bounty! Not only was this fish was as large as
any silver I have landed, but every one after that was
also just as enormous.
They
commonly refer to these fish as whalebacks, and rightfully
so, since these male Coho have a body that resembles the
silhouette of a hunchback fish, thus the name whaleback.
“Lots of
shoulders on these fish,” I murmured to George as I
released my last Coho of the evening.
The Gate
Just south of the Camp there exists a river system so
remote that half of the rivers in the system haveno names.
Others are simply too hard to pronounce. George offered to
take us for a jet-boat ride to the far ends of a virgin
valley that is the home of probably the largest silver
salmon in Alaska. The name of the entrance to the valley
is “The Gate,” a name derived from the impossible logjams
that block its entrance.
Davis and his son Jason
have carved out a piece of this valley and explored its
upper reaches. Here in the headwaters of the River
lie banks that have not been walked upon by man. It is
refreshing to find places
on God’s green earth where this is still true. It was here
that we would explore a subspecies of silvers that would
be unlike any we have seen before. George told me of fish
that commercial fishermen have pulled from this drainage
that have topped thirty lbs.
We were
not to be disappointed with The Gate. The fishing was
different than fishing the tidal flats of the Aleutian
River and Volcano bay, where the fish moved for the dry
fly like hungry hyenas on a kill. No, these fish were more
sullen. They were deep in pools of turquoise-hued glacial
milt. A fly fished slower with a ten-foot sink tip was the
order of the day.
Slowing
the fly down was the axiom to abide by here. A fly fished
deep worked well, as fish moved aggressively across pools
to inhale them. We managed to hook several fish close to
twenty pounds. The most exciting thing was watching the
wakes of whalebacks pushing waves across river to attack
our flies.
I watched
Jake fishing from the boat, casting directly downstream in
front of a logjam. A school of silvers had sequestered
themselves under a logjam that only could be effectively
fished from the boat-anchored midstream. George instructed
Jake on the proper angle to extract the silvers from under
the logjam. Jake must have hooked at least twenty fish
from the boat. If you ever get to visit George’s Davis, a
visit to "The Gate" is a must.
On
The Surface
Few fly fishing experiences can really top catching
silvers on the surface. It wasn’t until my last day that I
really had an opportunity to fish for them. George drove
us to a place on another nearby river, a lower river lake
that provided the playground for hooking and releasing
twenty-plus fish on the dry before my flight out that last
day.
I must
admit, I was really surprised by the total numbers of fish
and their eagerness to take the dry fly. I had always
heard of the kamikaze fish of Alaska chasing flies and
eating them like escaping baitfish skipping on the
surface. No, this was different. The fish were sipping dry
flies like midges! I couldn’t believe it. Imagine a large
hundred acre lake filled with thousands of Cohoes--that’s
how many fish were in the coastal Rivers.!

The Cohoes moved slowly upstream in the morning light,
pushing wakes with their noses. I cast my techno Wog (a
hybrid Wog that is constructed with closed cell-foam) in
front of a school fish; a beak appeared. It engulfed my
fly and tightened its jaws around it. I couldn’t believe
it! A sipper! I slowly tightened my line, and it was off
to the races. I looked over my shoulder, and my saltwater
guru Jake had a fish on also! Doubles!
We
released both fish shortly thereafter, taking many shots
(see photos) before the warm light of later morning
appeared. This sequence took place time and time again for
me and my friend Jake. A glorious morning of fishing that
will be forever etched in our memories as one of those
perfect days.
George Davis
Anyone who wants to have a true Alaskan experience owes it
to himself or herself to visit George Davis. If you would
like additional information and booking information,
contact us at
877-801-2289.
lwww.alaskatrophyadventures.com
by
Tony Weaver
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